Recently, the following video clip with its soothing country song of Sandakan have stirred sweet memories of this seaside town of my birthplace where I spent the first 12 years of my life.
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Harbour Mall, Sandakan |
Click here for "Sandakan Town".
The lyrics are spot on as they capture the essence of this township within these few verses:-
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Old buildings speak tales that only locals know |
Back then there wasn't any traffic lights on the streets and we get by with roundabouts to direct traffic flow. Personal memories are aplenty of this rustic but thriving town where enterprising spirits and dreams of a better tomorrow live on amongst its residence. Just sharing two recollections here as follows:
a) There is a "Jalan Singapura" (Singapore Road) in Sandakan besides the padang leading to some residential flats.
b) The name of Sandakan's signature tart comprising a round and flat madeleine-texture base with swirls of a composition of white, light brown and yellow meringue on top has evolved from 'chicken-poo' to 'cow-dung' and to the current name of 'UFO'. Here is a variation of it by Bakery M in Singapore:-
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UFO Tart x Mochi and UFO Tart |
Click here for Sandakan A Timeless Destination 2024.
Click here for Sandakan, Sabah, Malaysia.
"Founding and Early Days of Sandakan, Sabah, East Malaysia
Sandakan, located on the northeastern coast of Sabah (formerly British North Borneo), has a rich and layered history. The town's modern founding dates back to 1879, but its history goes further, tied to early trade and maritime routes in the Sulu Sea.
Originally, the settlement was known as Kampung German, named after German entrepreneur William Pryer, who served as the first Resident of the East Coast under the British North Borneo Chartered Company (BNBCC). The area had previously been a small trading outpost, and Pryer selected it as the site for a new administrative capital after the earlier settlement in Pulau Timbang was destroyed by fire.
Pryer named the new settlement Elopura, meaning “Beautiful Town,” but the local name Sandakan—derived from the Suluk word "Sandakan" (meaning “the place that was pawned”)—prevailed and became the official name.
Colonial Era and Economic Growth
Under the BNBCC, Sandakan grew rapidly in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. It became the capital of British North Borneo and developed into a bustling port town. Its location made it ideal for exporting timber, tobacco, and later, palm oil and rubber. Sandakan was famously known as the "Little Hong Kong" due to its vibrant Chinese community and active trade links.
During this time, Sandakan saw the influx of immigrants—mainly from China and the Philippines—who contributed to its multicultural character and economic development.
World War II and the Sandakan Death Marches
One of the most tragic chapters in Sandakan's history occurred during World War II, when the Japanese Imperial Army occupied the town from 1942 to 1945.
The Sandakan POW camp held over 2,400 Allied prisoners, mostly Australians and British. In 1945, as the war turned against Japan, the infamous Sandakan Death Marches began. Prisoners were forced to march over 260 kilometers to Ranau under brutal conditions. Only six prisoners survived—those who escaped. This event remains one of the most horrific war crimes in Southeast Asia and is commemorated today at the Sandakan Memorial Park, located at the site of the original POW camp.
Sandakan was heavily bombed by Allied forces during the final stages of the war, leaving the town in ruins.
Post-War Rebuilding and Modern Development
Following the war, Sandakan lost its status as capital of British North Borneo when the administration moved to Jesselton (now Kota Kinabalu) in 1946. Despite this, Sandakan remained economically significant, especially in the timber industry, and retained a strong commercial presence.
Throughout the second half of the 20th century, the town rebuilt itself, modernizing infrastructure and expanding into sectors like agriculture, tourism, and services. The port of Sandakan continued to be a key hub for exports, particularly timber and palm oil.
Sandakan Today: A Hub of Nature, Culture, and Community
Today, Sandakan is Sabah's second-largest town and a melting pot of cultures, with significant Chinese, Malay, Filipino, and indigenous communities. It plays an essential role in the state's economy and continues to be a center of biodiversity and conservation efforts.
1. Ecotourism and Nature Attractions
Sandakan is often referred to as the “Gateway to Borneo’s Wildlife.” Some of its most iconic attractions include:
Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre: One of the world’s most renowned sanctuaries for rescued and orphaned orangutans. Visitors can observe orangutans during feeding times and learn about conservation efforts.
Click here for EXPLORING SABAH | Orangutans, Sun Bears & Sandakan’s Hidden Gems!
Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre: Located near Sepilok, this center provides shelter for rescued sun bears and promotes education on the species.
Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary: Home to the endemic proboscis monkey, famous for its long nose and pot belly. It offers close-up viewing platforms within the mangrove forest.
Kinabatangan River: A haven for river cruises and wildlife spotting, including orangutans, pygmy elephants, hornbills, crocodiles, and proboscis monkeys.
Click here for Our Dutch-Malaysian Family Trip to Kinabatangan & Mabul.
Click here for BORNEO 🇲🇾 2 weeks of travel. Sepilok - Kinabatangan - Sipadan - KK.
Rainforest Discovery Centre: A gem for nature lovers and birdwatchers, this center features a canopy walkway and botanical gardens within the Kabili-Sepilok Forest Reserve.
Turtle Islands Park (Pulau Selingan): An offshore sanctuary where green and hawksbill turtles lay eggs. Visitors can witness turtle hatchings in controlled, conservation-friendly environments.
Click here for Helping BABY TURTLES on TURTLE ISLAND MALAYSIA! 🇲🇾 (Selingan Island Borneo).
For more of Sabah beyond Sandakan, please feel free to check out the following clips:
Click here for BORNEO 🇲🇾 2 Weeks in Sabah | Sepilok, Turtle Island, Kinabatangan, Mt Kinabalu.
Click here for CLIMBING MOUNT KINABALU | The Ultimate Documentary GUIDE 【 沙巴神山攻顶全纪录片】
Click here for 3 DAYS in 130 million-year-old JUNGLE IN BORNEO! (DANUM VALLEY PART 1).
Click here for MUST DO IN SABAH | Kiulu White Water Rafting.
Click here for BORNEO-Birding and Wildlife Trip by Alana and Greg Dare.
Click here for Tabin Wildlife Reserve- The best Borneo safari experience (EP8 Sabah).
2. New Suburbs and Urban Development
Sandakan has seen modern growth, with new suburbs and townships expanding its residential and commercial footprint:
Bandar Indah and Bandar Utama: Growing residential areas with malls, eateries, and modern amenities.
IJM Town: A new mixed-use township with condominiums, shop lots, and recreational areas.
Taman Tyng, Taman Sejati, and Taman Sibuga: Established neighborhoods with schools, local businesses, and places of worship.
Harbour Square and Sandakan New Township: Modern developments along the waterfront with hotels, offices, and the Sandakan Heritage Trail nearby.
3. Food and Local Produce
Sandakan is a culinary haven famous for its fusion of Chinese, Malay, and Filipino influences, reflecting the town’s multicultural roots.
Some must-try dishes and local specialties include:
Sandakan-style spring noodles (mee tuaran / mee kon lau) – Wok-fried noodles with char siu and vegetables.
Seafood – Fresh and affordable. Try butter prawns, grilled fish, or crab in black pepper sauce.
UFO Tart – A local pastry with a cookie base, soft sponge, and meringue topping. Unique to Sandakan!
Kuih Cincin and Amplang – Traditional local snacks made from rice flour and fish crackers.
Bak Kut Teh – A savory herbal pork soup that's particularly popular in Sandakan’s Chinese restaurants.
Soto Sandakan – A Sabah-style beef or chicken noodle soup with tangy and spicy flavors.
📍 Best food spots:
Kim Fung Market (for breakfast and snacks)
Pasar Sim-Sim (for seafood by the water)
Waterfront Food Stalls (evening dining with sea views)
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I love the dim sum in Sandakan! |
Click here for What to eat in Sandakan? - best and unique food you must eat (won't find anywhere else) (EP1 Sabah).
Click here for Sandakan Sabah : Malaysia No. 1 Food Destination. 山打根八家美食
4. Cultural and Historical Spots
St. Michael's and All Angels Church: One of the oldest stone churches in Sabah, built in 1893. A fine example of colonial architecture.
Sandakan Heritage Trail: A self-guided walking tour that links historical sites like the Agnes Keith House, the old Chinese temple, and the church.
Agnes Keith House: A restored colonial-era bungalow once home to the American author Agnes Newton Keith, known for her WWII memoirs.
Sandakan Memorial Park: Built on the site of the former POW camp, it commemorates those who perished during World Wall II. The well-maintained park, complete with a small museum and walking trails, is a solemn reminder of the horrors of war and a place of reflection for visitors from around the world.
Click here for Sandakan Heritage Trail & Memorial Park guide- Best places to visit in Sandakan (EP2 Sabah).
Click here for Their Sacrifice Is Our Solemn Heritage.
5. Travel Tip and Accommodations
📌 Travel Tips
Best time to visit: March to October (dry season)
Airport: Sandakan Airport (SDK) – 20 minutes from town
Recommended stay: 3–4 days to enjoy both town and nature trips
🏨 Top Accommodations in Sandakan (April 2025)
🌟 Luxury & Nature Retreats
1. Sabah Hotel Sandakan
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Rating: ★★★★ (8.4/10)
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Location: Km 1 Jalan Utara, Sandakan
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Highlights: Set amidst tropical rainforests, this resort offers spacious rooms, an outdoor pool, gym, and multiple dining options.
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Price: From $85 per night
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Booking: expedia
2. Sepilok Nature Resort
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Rating: ★★★ (9.4/10)
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Location: Near Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre
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Highlights: Charming chalets surrounded by lush gardens, ideal for wildlife enthusiasts.
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Booking: expedia
3. Sepilok Forest Edge Resort
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Rating: ★★★ (8.8/10)
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Location: Jalan Rambutan, Sepilok
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Highlights: Eco-friendly lodges with close proximity to nature attractions.
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Booking: expedia
🏙️ Mid-Range Hotels
4. The Elopura Hotel
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Rating: ★★★ (7.7/10)
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Location: Sandakan Harbour Square
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Highlights: Strategically located with sea views, near shopping and dining options.
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Price: From $50 per night
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Booking: Booking.com
5. Livingston Hotel
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Rating: ★★★½ (7.9/10)
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Location: Jalan Utara, Mile 4
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Highlights: Offers comfortable rooms with modern amenities and an outdoor pool.
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Price: From $50 per night
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Booking: Travelocity.com
6. Hotel Sandakan
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Rating: ★★★
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Location: City center, near the Sulu seafront
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Highlights: Features two restaurants serving local and international cuisine, and offers free Wi-Fi.
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Booking: Booking.com
💰 Budget-Friendly Options
7. Hotel City Star
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Rating: ★★★
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Location: Lot 3A - 4B Block 22, 4th Avenue
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Highlights: Affordable accommodation with essential amenities and free Wi-Fi.
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Price: From $17 per night
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Booking: Orbitz.com
8. Paganakan Dii Tropical Retreat
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Rating: ★★½
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Location: Mile 14, Jalan Labuk
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Highlights: Rustic retreat offering a unique jungle experience, close to Sepilok.
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Price: From $32 per night
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Booking: Wotif.com
9. Sepilok Jungle Resort
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Rating: ★★½
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Location: Jalan Rambutan, Mile 14 Sepilok
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Highlights: Budget-friendly resort with a pool, situated near wildlife centers.
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Price: From $53 per night
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Booking: Wotif.com
Click here for Sepilok Jungle Resort review- Our true experience (with amazing hospitality) (EP3 Sabah).
Note: Prices are approximate and may vary based on booking dates and availability. It's advisable to check current rates and reviews on booking platforms before making a reservation.
Conclusion
Sandakan is a town where history breathes through its colonial architecture, where nature flourishes in lush rainforests and winding rivers, and where culture comes alive in its food and festivals. Though often overshadowed by Kota Kinabalu, Sandakan offers an authentic, enriching experience for travelers and a deep sense of pride for locals.
From its tragic past to its hopeful future, Sandakan continues to evolve—gracefully balancing between remembrance and rejuvenation."
If you do get to visit Sandakan (SDK), I wish you a pleasant stay in SDK and take home with you lots of happy memories.
And, if you have emigrated from SDK, the following clip will help you relived your sweet days in SDK.
Click here for Sandakan Memories.
Thank you for reading Daily Refreshing.